Assembling arduino robotic arm12/10/2023 Download and install Arduino IDE latest version Now that the hardware is ready, it's time to work on the Arduino code.ġ. Plug an USB cable on the Arduino and proceed to the next step. They will also lose their strenght.ĭon't connect the power source until you've uploaded the Arduino code (shown in later steps). The servos consume a lot of power, and if the power supply is not powerfull enough, the servos will vibrate and get really hot. You'll also need to connect an external 12V power supply. If you're not using the control shield, you should use the following pin configuration: Nunchuk pin 4 (Gnd) => Arduino Uno Pin Gnd.Nunchuk pin 3 (Vcc) => Ardino Uno Pin 3V3.Nunchuk pin 1 (SDA) => Arduino Uno Pin A4.Nunchuk pin 6 (SCL) => Arduino Uno Pin A5.If you're using an Arduino Uno, Nunchuk' SCL and SDA pins shall be connected to different Arduino pins, as follows: Nunchuk pin 4 (Gnd) => Arduino Mega Pin Gnd (on the shield).Nunchuk pin 3 (Vcc) => Ardino Mega Pin 3V3 (on the shield).Nunchuk pin 1 (SDA) => Arduino Mega Pin 20 (SDA) (on the shield).Nunchuk pin 6 (SCL) => Arduino Mega Pin 21 (SCL) (on the shield).It makes the connection of the components easier, since it already comes with specific connectors for the servomotors, power supply, etc. I used the controll board shield that came along with my robotic arm kit. Once the structure is assembled, and Nunchuk connectors are finished, you'll be ready to wire up the circuits. It's a good option if you want to same some time on soldering and doesn't want to destroy the original connector. I was informed later that there's a Nunchuk adapter that makes the connection to a breadboad easier ( link / link). For that, I used a soldering iron, and some shrinking tube, as its shown on the pictures. I soldered the wires to a male jumper, for an easier connection to the Arduino board. I've already heard of the following possibilities: Using a multimeter, and based on the color of each wire, I determined the function of each wire (Vcc, GND, SCL and SDA) based on the schematic of the connector shown in the picture. :/įirst I had to cut the connector of the joystick and remove the insulation of the wires. This way, it won't work with a Nintendo Wii anymore. In order to connect it to the Arduino, I had to cut its cable and expose it's wires. Unfortunatelly Nunchuk joysticks have a complicated connector, hard to interface with other electronics. It has an Arduino library. Robert Eisele designed an amazing and easy to use library for reading Nunchuk sensor.It has lots of sensors! Each controller has two buttons (Z and C buttons), a two axis joystick (X and Y) and a three axis accelerometer.They are easy to find! There are several original and inexpensive replicas online.They are cheap! Replicas might have a inferior quality, but I didn't need a robust controller for this project.The finished robot arm will be able to move quite accurately, as shown in the video below.For this project I decided to use a Nintendo Nunchuk controller for a number of reasons: Here are the 5 steps needed to complete to get this micro robot arm working. Push button (as long as it's a push button anything will do). The gears ensure both more torque on the output shaft and, in general, better accuracy. As a controller, we are using an ESP32 microcontroller. One big difference to the AR2 is that this robot arm is made with super cheap (~$3) 28BYJ-48 12V stepper motors. Just like the AR2, the goal with this robot arm is to get it to move as smoothly and accurately as possible. The AR2 is also a stepper driven robot arm. This is a simple stepper motor robot arm.
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